A conversation with Ray Garcia, Jonathan Gold, Evan Kleiman, Bricia Lopez, and Carlos Salgado about the evolving role of Mexican cuisine in LA as culture, art, and craft
Source: Food Icons on the Evolving Role of Mexican Cuisine in LA
Together, critic Jonathan Gold, food scholar Evan Kleiman, and chefs Ray Garcia, Bricia Lopez, and Carlos Salgado have spent more than a lifetime preparing, eating, and writing about Latin American cuisine. Before their recent panel discussion at the Getty, offered in conjunction with Pacific Standard Time, they sat down with us to reflect on the role of Mexican cuisine in the life of Los Angeles and how we might expand our taste buds to go deeper.
JG: I’m a writer. Some people can call writers artists, some people cannot. In terms of food, there are people who approach cuisine from an art angle. Carlos Salgado is astonishing that way. His food is rooted in Mexican flavors, but there’s this level of abstraction in his food. Is it art as opposed to food? No, it’s food, but it’s being approached in a different way.
CS: The highest point in my life is being with close family and friends, in the backyard over a fire, cooking over the course of many hours, sitting under the sky, and just filling this space with so much warmth. When I’m cooking there, I feel much more like an artist than when I worked in the highest-concept restaurants. They are like museums of food, accessible only with a certain level of literacy on the part of the diner, with a certain level of cultural experience and background.
BL: I love Peruvian food. Everything from the ceviche to rice and beans, all of the flavors. It has so much depth.
CS: Baja coastal cuisine. The freshness of it–you eat seafood in the morning because it just came in. Very simply prepared, very intense, briny ocean flavors: big clams, oysters, shrimp. Big, big flavors.
CS: I would say try more and different types of chilies, and the salsas that result from them. The range of flavors, and balance of flavors, is really exciting, and is my favorite part of Mexican food.
RG: Put aside your thoughts and limitations on what Mexican food can be, and how much it can cost. Especially in LA, there is almost a cult-like following for cheap Mexican food, for the greasy taco truck. There is something people find exciting about that, but I think it’s good to stop and wonder why your taco costs a dollar. There must be a lot behind it that allows you to eat a dollar taco. It probably doesn’t include a living wage, a safe work environment, or the best quality ingredients for you and your body. We could understand where our food is coming from and be a bit more conscious in our choices.