Updated: July 23, 2022
A favourite spot. Natural wines by the glass and bottle + seasonal small plates. The team introduced us to lupini beans as a local snack. Pick up a bottle of wine, local cheese, bread, and tinned fish for home. Prado Mercearia is a deli/wine bar, and there’s a more formal restaurant, Prado, down the hill.
O Velho Eurico
Traditional Portuguese food by young chefs. Friends took us here and we were able to taste almost everything on the chalkboard menu between the four of us. Tiny spot. You walk (squeeze) your way through the kitchen to get to the dining room.
A couple from Montréal pouring natural wines (him) and serving up vegetarian eats (her). They also have a bar and bottle shop, Senhor Manuel, across the road where you can enjoy a glass while you wait for a table (or just because). Snacks available at the bar too from memory.
Taberna do Calhau
Natural wine and delicious eats made from local produce. Often just 2-3 people working, so it’s likely the owner who will explain the menu to you and recommend a bottle of wine to match. We went for lunch and tried a bunch of small plates, but there was also a local who had simply come in for a quick glass of wine and bowl of soup for lunch. They serve quite a bit of offal. It wasn’t open yet when we were there, but they might now have a wine bar next door.
A nice, lively wine bar for a drink or dinner up in cute hilly Graça. Run by Italians (they have a bar in Venice too) and they peddle a natural wines from across the continent. Great seasonal food menu too — the bacalhau was generous and delicious. Some all-veggie options.
Small deli-style plates of local produce and an amazing selection of Portuguese natural wines, including many lady winemakers. Great place to pick up bottles for home (or picnics).
Traditional food from the Algarve region. You can sit outside and take in the late-1800s architecture of the Santa Apolónia train station and Museu Militar while the sun sets. Order the stingray.
Cantinho do Aziz
Casual Mozambican eats enjoyed outside amid the layered streets of Mouraria. Meat heavy. Lost in Lisbon suggested eating the shrimp and crab makoufe, lamb chacuti, and zambezian chicken. We ordered the Mozambican beers and then debated the carbon cost of flying those small glass beer bottles in. They make yuca chips 💛
The best! So fresh and soft, lush with citrus, and say yes to a cinnamon dusting.
**Pastéis de Belém**
Touristy but you must visit because it has a wonderful old-school character. Known from the pastéis but you can order many different sweet and savoury eats. There will likely be a line outside for the takeaway window. If there isn’t a line for the restaurant, head in, hover awkwardly until someone notices you, you won’t have to wait long for a table. Some of the staff are these older gents who have probably worked there forever — they’re super fast and efficient. You can stroll along the river afterwards to see Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Torre de Belém.