Introduction

One of my favourite days in Liguria was spent exploring the coastline between Recco, Camogli, San Fruttuoso, and Portofino — a route that perfectly captures the magic of the Italian Riviera. This stretch of coastline blends pastel fishing villages, hidden coves, dramatic cliffs, and effortless glamour. What makes it even more special is how you experience it: part by car, winding along scenic coastal roads, and part by boat, arriving into tiny harbours the way they were meant to be seen — from the water. Perfect for a one-day adventure from Milan!

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Tip: Check ferry times in advance (weather can change schedules), and bring swim shoes for rocky beaches.

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Best time to go: We did this day trip in April and it was ideal. It was less busy with lighter traffic than summer, but still had great weather for exploring.

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Liguria: Focaccia, Ferries & Fishing Villages

Morning: Recco – The Focaccia Capital

Start your day in Recco, the culinary gateway to the coast.

• The Must-Try: Focaccia di Recco col formaggio (thin, unleavened, and filled with melted cheese).
• Local Pick: Panificio Moltedo dal 1874. Try the classic cheese or the Pesto Focaccia.

Midday: The Golfo Paradiso Ferry

Skip the car for this leg—the best views are from the water. Hop on the coastal ferry connecting the hidden gems of the gulf.

• Typical Departures: Morning boats usually run between 9:30 AM – 11:30 AM.
• Tickets (Approx. 2026 Rates):
  • Recco → Camogli: €4.00 round-trip (€2.50 one-way).
  • Recco → San Fruttuoso: €15.00 round-trip (€11.00 one-way).

Camogli & San Fruttuoso

• Stop 1: Camogli: Explore the iconic towering, colourful houses lining the harbour.
• Stop 2: San Fruttuoso: A "hidden" bay only accessible by boat or hike. Visit the 10th-century Abbey, swim in the crystal-clear cove, or spot the "Christ of the Abyss" statue underwater.
• Return by boat back to Recco.

Afternoon: Portofino

Drive from Recco to Portofino (25 mins), arguably Italy's most famous coastal village.

• The Experience: Walk to Castello Brown for the "postcard view" of the harbor.
• Relax: Enjoy a gelato or an Aperitivo on the Piazzetta while people-watching.

Evening: Sunset Aperitivo in Camogli

On your way back toward Milan, make one last stop for the ultimate sunset view.

• The Spot: La Rotonda di Camogli.
• The Order: A Hugo Spritz and a board of local snacks.
• The View: This spot is famous for its terrace that hangs over the sea—perfect for watching the sun dip into the Mediterranean before the drive home.

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If you are looking for somewhere to stay on the Ligurian coast check out my Sestri Levante travel guide.

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