The purpose of cleansing is to gently remove dirt and cell debris. The best cleanser for you is the mildest cleanser that will clean your skin without stripping your skin of essential moisture.
The cleanser should not be harsh and should not leave your skin feeling dry or flaky. If your skin feels tight after washing with a cleanser, it is not right for your skin. In general, the more a cleanser foams, the more drying it will be because it likely contains a larger quantity of detergent. Liquid or lotion style cleansers tend to be gentler. A good oil cleanser will function as a super gentle surfactant that loosens dried up debris on your face.
If your skin tends to be acne prone, you want to wash away oil and you should consider a cleanser that has 2% salicylic acid. Otherwise, use a separate exfoliating acid not in cleanser form.
Your nighttime cleanser can be slightly stronger to wash off makeup and dirt.
Micellar water is popular. Micellation is the process which soaps and detergents break down big chemicals such as oil and dirt (and eye makeup) into smaller ones so they can rinse off the skin easily. Micellar water will do a good job removing heavy eye makeup. Otherwise you don’t really need it. If you do use it, micellar water works best using warm water.
Double cleansing is also popular, especially in Korean skin care routines. First you use an oil-based cleanser to remove heavy makeup, sun screen, and pollution. Then, you use a water-based cleanser to wash any extra dirt.
Cleansers are a great place to keep it basic and simple. There is no reason to spend money on an expensive cleanser with added ingredients that will wash off before they can be fully effective.
American style toners are mostly just exfoliators that are designed to close pores and tighten skin. Asian style toners tend to be moisturizers. Your toner may also contain ingredients that are drying, so while they may feel smooth and cool, your skin is left parched. Some toners contain moisturizing and anti-inflammatory substances like (rosewater and cucumber) to combat their drying effect. A toner containing witch hazel is rich in tannins and will feel tightening. This feeling is temporary and has no long-term effect.
The bottom line is that a separate toner is superfluous if you exfoliate and moisturize.
Exfoliation produces benefits that should be immediately noticeable (in contrast to serums which take months for effects to be perceptible). Sloughing off dead skin instantly brightens your complexion and makes it look fresher. In theory, you could also scrub dead skin cells with a loofa. Or you can use a home microdermabrasion cream which contains scrubbing granules. However, since AHAs and BHAs increase collagen production, they will provide the best result.
If you have dry or sensitive skin, try lactic acid, which is the gentlest option.
How often should you exfoliate? Exfoliation also removes the vitamin C and E embedded in the stratum corneum. Stripping these vitamins away is akin to robbing your skin of its supplies. Heavy duty exfoliators are meant to be used once per week. Lighter exfoliators can be used daily.
How long should you leave on the AHA? The first time you use an AHA, leave it on for one minute and then rinse it off. As you get used to the product, you can leave it on for longer. Ideally, you will leave it on for 20 minutes before using another product, such as a moisturizer. AHAs work at a pH of 4. At some point, your skin’s natural pH will impede the AHA.
The goal here is to repair the skin to healthy levels of nutrients, which can become depleted by poor skin care, sun and pollution, and over-exfoliation. When you massage products into your skin you are increasing the blood supply and that blood is bringing oxygen. While this may increase blood circulation, this will not increase skin cell absorption.
Repair skin with either an essence or a serum. What is the difference between an essence and a serum? An essence is simply a thin, watery lotion. Think of a traditional moisturizer only more liquefied. A serum is a lightweight, gel-like moisturizer that is less emollient than your average cream. Serums are formed from water and oil incompletely mixed. Serums mix well with skin oils and allow for the easy application of makeup.